We sat down with Jerry Yates, long-time farmer of the Heart Arrow and Fairbairn Ranches, to discover what makes Mendocino County the greenest winegrowing region in the world.
Tell us about your background. What led you into organic and Biodynamic wine growing?
I was born and raised in Mendocino County. As a boy I helped with harvests. My whole adult life I’ve made a living from agriculture. I worked for Fetzer from the 1980’s to 2000, responsible for over 1200 acres of vineyards. I led the organic and Biodynamic projects under Bobby Fetzer. During my time there, Fetzer planted and certified some of the first organic and the first Biodynamic vineyards in the United States. Heart Arrow has been certified Biodynamic since its inception in 1999.
Describe your involvement with Heart Arrow and Fairbairn Ranch. How are they different today than when you first set foot there?
Fairbairn Ranch has been farmed organically since 1986 and it was one of the first Demeter-certified Biodynamic vineyards in the United States. I’ve lived on the Fairbairn Ranch since 199x (chuckle). We like to say great wine is made in the vineyard so that’s where I spend my time. We have 22.5 acres of Syrah, Australian Clone 3, on three different rootstocks. It makes a very special wine.
Julie and Joe Golden asked me and Bobby Fetzer to consult on the first planting of the Heart Arrow in 1997. The Heart Arrow Ranch was designed from the beginning to farm a small piece to protect a large wilderness area.
Can you describe the main differences between Biodynamic and organic farming? What are some of the factors that you consider as a Biodynamic farmer?
One way to look at it is to think of organic as “passive” and Biodynamic as “active organic” farming. In organics you don’t add harmful chemicals. In Biodynamics we are by nature organic, but then we take it the extra step to make all our own preparations and composts. We farm differently: we use more hand labor, we balance the vine’s health, we attract beneficial insects, we use our farm animals to help. Chickens eat cut worms to fertilize. We use sheep as our eco-lawn mowers to keep the cover crops short. We make modifications to traditional farm equipment: eg, between the vine mowers; spaders.
Why does Mendocino County have such a strong interest in Biodynamics?
I think it’s a grass-roots movement consistent with Mendocino’s history. This county has always been concerned with farming practices in harmony with nature. The first non-GMO public ordinance was enacted in Mendocino County. Also, we’re all very active in spreading the Biodynamic principles: I help other farmers convert their vineyards over a 2-3 year period. We successfully certified two more last year. Julie is an office and a co-founder of the Demeter Biodynamic Trade Association.
How is Mendocino County unique from other wine-growing regions in California?
Mendocino County alone has over 33% of the nation’s organic vineyards. I believe the closest 2nd is 6%. So by a long stretch we are the greenest vineyard county in America. We think that’s important for both making great wine and for living in harmony with the earth.
- del.icio.us